Having just come back from Hardangervidda plateau I thought
it would be of value to share my experience with anyone who may be interested.
Be it a potential ‘plateau-crosser’ or a mere mortal simply curious in this
kind of event.
In my experience, there are many causes why any form of expeditioning may appeal. To me it is the feeling of being in charge of my own destiny – when in the field you often rely on yourself and the team mates in order to ensure safety and generally have a good time. A good example of this is lighting the stove, on Hardangervidda you will be lighting a stove inside the tent porch for hours a day – doing so independently, safely and responsibly with full awareness that setting the tent alight isn’t desirable. Other examples include looking after each other, sharing responsibilities and so on.
There is a significant number of things on these expeditions where you get to use your own initiative to help you achieve your (+team) goals in the best way. Other, more cliché reasons for signing up revolve around the desire to see the world and the enjoyment of a ‘good old challenge’
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In my experience, there are many causes why any form of expeditioning may appeal. To me it is the feeling of being in charge of my own destiny – when in the field you often rely on yourself and the team mates in order to ensure safety and generally have a good time. A good example of this is lighting the stove, on Hardangervidda you will be lighting a stove inside the tent porch for hours a day – doing so independently, safely and responsibly with full awareness that setting the tent alight isn’t desirable. Other examples include looking after each other, sharing responsibilities and so on.
There is a significant number of things on these expeditions where you get to use your own initiative to help you achieve your (+team) goals in the best way. Other, more cliché reasons for signing up revolve around the desire to see the world and the enjoyment of a ‘good old challenge’
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Signing up:
This is (at this stage) one of the trickier parts of ending up on an expedition. I often hear people talking themselves out of the challenge despite clear interest. This is normally due to ‘not being fit/tough/young/old/ready’ enough at the present time. While I somewhat understand the intimidation of something so unfamiliar and challenging as an arctic crossing it is worth mentioning that you WILL get answers and WILL have the support and opportunity to make sure that you are ready for when the time comes.
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Training weekend:
By this stage I was already well into my research into the things I might need and what to expect. Armed with the biggest fattest and reddest down jacket I could find I felt ready for the adventure. Or so I thought.
During the training weekend you get to familiarise yourself with the equipment you will be using, the hilleberg tents, stoves, shovels, snowshoes, boots and so on. More importantly you will be able to meet the other people on your expedition, your leaders and get to know / plan your route. I found it pretty informative to find myself in a room of people who have completed the same challenge (Svalbard training weekend took place on the same weekend, many see Hardangervidda as a stepping stone to Svalbard).
One thing that definitely stood out is the repeated message, reminding everyone of the fact that whichever trip we are attending, they are at a level of challenge which should be respected. This means personal fitness, suitable equipment and respecting the environment you will be in.
I must say, at the time I thought I understood it, having now completed the expedition. I know I could have understood it some more.
Looking back on it, the training is DEFINETELY worth attending and should be seen as a necessity rather than an extra.
This is (at this stage) one of the trickier parts of ending up on an expedition. I often hear people talking themselves out of the challenge despite clear interest. This is normally due to ‘not being fit/tough/young/old/ready’ enough at the present time. While I somewhat understand the intimidation of something so unfamiliar and challenging as an arctic crossing it is worth mentioning that you WILL get answers and WILL have the support and opportunity to make sure that you are ready for when the time comes.
__________________________________________________________________________________
Training weekend:
By this stage I was already well into my research into the things I might need and what to expect. Armed with the biggest fattest and reddest down jacket I could find I felt ready for the adventure. Or so I thought.
During the training weekend you get to familiarise yourself with the equipment you will be using, the hilleberg tents, stoves, shovels, snowshoes, boots and so on. More importantly you will be able to meet the other people on your expedition, your leaders and get to know / plan your route. I found it pretty informative to find myself in a room of people who have completed the same challenge (Svalbard training weekend took place on the same weekend, many see Hardangervidda as a stepping stone to Svalbard).
One thing that definitely stood out is the repeated message, reminding everyone of the fact that whichever trip we are attending, they are at a level of challenge which should be respected. This means personal fitness, suitable equipment and respecting the environment you will be in.
I must say, at the time I thought I understood it, having now completed the expedition. I know I could have understood it some more.
Looking back on it, the training is DEFINETELY worth attending and should be seen as a necessity rather than an extra.
The Trip:
Following the training I have gotten back into the old routine of working, sleeping and eating with some training mixed in. It is absolutely amazing how quick the time between the training and sitting on an aeroplane comes around. Staying focused on the training is a little tricky but by far the best thing you can do to help yourself later on as you walk uphill very slowly – all too aware of the presence of the pulk behind you.
It all happened very quickly, I won’t describe the fun adventure that awaits you with relocating anywhere with the pulks and the baggage but I guarantee it will be well worth the fun. After that, we went back to the hostel, went to the train station and enjoyed the 4 hour train ride to our starting point. The train journey is an enjoyable one, as the time passes you get to see less and less of urban Norway and more of its natural side. The views are great – so are the waffles in the restaurant carriage. I saw this as an opportunity to get to know the other guys (no ladies on this trip this time), enjoy a last minute read and update my diary. I guess this is the time to relax before a hard weeks graft.
As we got off the train and offloaded our pulks much to the amusement of the Norwegian population I have gotten a sudden realisation that I’m about to embark on a week-long crossing on the arctic. This wasn’t a surprise but it only just sank in. It felt pretty cool. Having done the administrative tasks of repacking our trusty sleds off we went into towards the white horizon.
The experience of pulling a pulk ‘into the white’ is a funky one – if, like me, you have not done this before you simply put one foot in front of the other (and there is an art to it if wearing snowshoes) pondering what to expect. As you plod along you get to (try at least) enjoy the scenic views of the Hardangervidda. Having been to Spain, Poland, Italy and India in the last year I was surprised to be surprised at the beauty of the place. The views, unlike all the others mentioned above, would look exactly the same on a black and white photograph as they would in colour but remain incredibly vivid. As a self-confessed views connoisseur I will happily give Hardangervidda 9/10. It’s beautiful.
It would be a lie if I said I found the first two days easy.
New to it all I struggled grasping the concept that each day has a beginning,
duration and the end. What I mean by
that is as the day went on I was unable to see the end of ‘suffer fest’ that
pulling a pulk was and it has definitely been noticed that the plateau was a
lot more ‘bumpy’ than expected. Looking back at it, I put these feelings down
quite simply to inexperience. When melting snow I came to a sudden realisation
that it isn’t the plateau that is wearing me down but I’m allowing myself to
wear myself down. As I was sat there filling my diary I decided to change a few
things. These were:
- Wear my wrist warmers.
- Keep snacks on tap.
- Use the flask for holding hot water during the day, not just to save time in the morning for breakfast.
- Drink more.
- Eat more.
- Be a little more efficient with ‘own time’ – if melting snow, rather than watching water boil make the most of the time and read, write and hum to sublime.
- Do not sit down when feeling tired later in the day until the day is over.
These seven seemingly little things made the glass half full again. The mother of all hot-aches decided to leave me alone once the wrist warmers were on. The front pocket of my salopettes was loaded with the snacks from the ration packs every day to make sure I can snack whenever I want and chocolate is not teeth-breakingly tough thanks to the ‘fire within’. Every longer break was accompanied by a hot drink and the free time was spent either resting or on doing things which I genuinely enjoy doing amongst the other necessities. Man it made a difference! The following days were still tough and challenging, but it was embraceable and seriously good fun. My mind started wandering and soon enough I was attempting to interpret the ground as well as reminiscing over the ups and downs of the last 22 years. Trips like these allow me to reinforce my view that all I want is a happy, simple life and more expeditions.
It is extremely satisfying to experience the constant improvement in basic things such as putting the tent up, working the stove or mastering the technique of staying comfortable in a place which does not lend itself to it. As silly as it sounds, these things really do provide a great deal of joy – as I hope you have/will get to find out J. The rest of the week pretty much continued to bring a great deal of challenge and joy. I shall leave the last day as a surprise – but other than getting your head into gear at the beginning it is definitely the biggest challenge.
When you (almost) finish you will reach a ski-skating track which will lead you to your pick up spot and then to the hostel where you will have a chance to take a shower for the first time in a little while. Throughout the time I was in the similar ‘deer in the headlights’ state I was in right at the beginning of the trip. One thing I realised pretty soon was that I learnt loads and it was absolutely worth it.
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- Wear my wrist warmers.
- Keep snacks on tap.
- Use the flask for holding hot water during the day, not just to save time in the morning for breakfast.
- Drink more.
- Eat more.
- Be a little more efficient with ‘own time’ – if melting snow, rather than watching water boil make the most of the time and read, write and hum to sublime.
- Do not sit down when feeling tired later in the day until the day is over.
These seven seemingly little things made the glass half full again. The mother of all hot-aches decided to leave me alone once the wrist warmers were on. The front pocket of my salopettes was loaded with the snacks from the ration packs every day to make sure I can snack whenever I want and chocolate is not teeth-breakingly tough thanks to the ‘fire within’. Every longer break was accompanied by a hot drink and the free time was spent either resting or on doing things which I genuinely enjoy doing amongst the other necessities. Man it made a difference! The following days were still tough and challenging, but it was embraceable and seriously good fun. My mind started wandering and soon enough I was attempting to interpret the ground as well as reminiscing over the ups and downs of the last 22 years. Trips like these allow me to reinforce my view that all I want is a happy, simple life and more expeditions.
It is extremely satisfying to experience the constant improvement in basic things such as putting the tent up, working the stove or mastering the technique of staying comfortable in a place which does not lend itself to it. As silly as it sounds, these things really do provide a great deal of joy – as I hope you have/will get to find out J. The rest of the week pretty much continued to bring a great deal of challenge and joy. I shall leave the last day as a surprise – but other than getting your head into gear at the beginning it is definitely the biggest challenge.
When you (almost) finish you will reach a ski-skating track which will lead you to your pick up spot and then to the hostel where you will have a chance to take a shower for the first time in a little while. Throughout the time I was in the similar ‘deer in the headlights’ state I was in right at the beginning of the trip. One thing I realised pretty soon was that I learnt loads and it was absolutely worth it.
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Two weeks after:
Being taken from the expedition bubble and thrown back into working life is a brutal experience, ideally, if you can, get some rest, if you can’t – try anyway. Often as I sat in the office and looked outside the window my mind seemed to wander to the ‘good old times’ where life was simple, routines predictable and no bridges were being built within few metres of where I am sat. Luckily enough I already have a big adventure to look forward to (Elbrus this june) and many smaller ones to be had in the Lake District before that. One thing about these trips is that they definitely build appetite.
Being taken from the expedition bubble and thrown back into working life is a brutal experience, ideally, if you can, get some rest, if you can’t – try anyway. Often as I sat in the office and looked outside the window my mind seemed to wander to the ‘good old times’ where life was simple, routines predictable and no bridges were being built within few metres of where I am sat. Luckily enough I already have a big adventure to look forward to (Elbrus this june) and many smaller ones to be had in the Lake District before that. One thing about these trips is that they definitely build appetite.
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